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Tommy Hilfiger autumn/winter 2011 at New York Fashion Week

Befitting Hilfiger’s close links with rock ‘n’ roll, The Stones’ “Gimme Shelter” kicked off the show, setting the pace for snappy, borrowed-from-the-boys, trouser suits, with sleeveless, tailored vests often replacing the double-breasted jackets, and coats, worn with red/navy striped collegiate hosiery.

Easy grey sweatshirts, paired with burgundy leather mini-skirts or skinny jeans, were an updated take on campus style. Striped sweaters and skirts, accessorized with big brimmed felt hats and knitted cloaks, tossed over the shoulders, and caught at the back with double clips, suggested a more bohemian Woodstock mood.

Hilfiger also dipped into Old School style, for an inspired run of “pyjama suits” in burgundy, red and navy silk foulard motifs, finished off with contrast stripe cummerbunds and hems, in jade and yellow striped satin. The mini-foulard pattern was repeated in billowing chiffon maxi-dresses, with batwing sleeves, accessorized with those big felt hats and knee boots.