Style13 Things a Man Should Pay Attention to at NYFW
Womenswear dominates New York Fashion Week in September, but these are the crucial menswear moments you shouldn't miss.
Here comes New York Fashion Week—again. The men’s shows took place in July, but the women's Spring-Summer 2017 NYFW kicks off today. While the average guy would be forgiven for not paying super close attention to a spectacle aimed squarely at womenswear editors, buyers, and consumers, there's still plenty of menswear to be seen. A much-loved line will come back from the dead this week; a men’s fashion legend is showing in a new format; several outré designers are looking to make a statement; and, naturally, Kanye West is in the mix. Here are the designers, shows, and events you should be paying attention to this week.
The designer-director breaks the mold starting tonight.
Patron saint of badass luxury sportswear Tom Ford announced last February that he would combine his men’s and women’s runway shows and move them to the much-discussed ‘see now, buy now’ format. That means tonight Ford is showing Tom Ford Fall-Winter 2016, and, if you’re prepared to ball out significantly, you can pick up pieces from the collection immediately after the show. Though the collection will only be shown live to an intimate crowd of about 100 over cocktails and dinner in the former Four Seasons space, it’ll be streamed online starting at 9:15PM. The designer-director debuted his second film at the Venice Film Festival last week, so expect the livestream to be more than an afterthought.
Yeezy Season 4
It wouldn't be NYFW without some Kanye-sized intrigue.
In February, Kanye West unveiled Yeezy Season 3 and The Life of Pablo simultaneously at an epic Madison Square Garden blowout. Season 4 is going down today, and editors have been told to show up at a midtown location to be picked up by bus a full hour-and-a-half before the show's reported start time. But there are plenty of questions still surrounding the event the morning of: Will Kanye, who last night played his second New York date on his Saint Pablo tour, play new music this time around? Will he show men's clothes at all? Will it even be in New York? (Best guess at this point is Roosevelt Island.) GQ’s Kanye correspondent Jake Woolf is continually updating this post with what we do know. Catch the livestream on Tidal starting at 3:00PM.
Heron Preston for DSNY
One of the most unexpected collaborations in an era of them.
This afternoon Been Trill cofounder and multi-hyphenate extraordinaire Heron Preston unveils UNIFORM, a collection of pieces created in partnership with the NYC Department of Sanitation. The limited-edition line, constructed using secondhand DSNY uniforms solicited from sanitation workers past and present, supports DSNY’s lofty mission to reduce New Yorkers’ landfill waste to zero by 2030, and fittingly it’s going down at the Spring Street Salt Shed, DSNY’s architectural homage to its pragmatic duty of salting the city’s roads in winter. If you want to be the first to rock Preston’s upcycled uniforms and benefit DSNY’s Foundation for New York’s Strongest, you can buy tickets to attend the stoppable event, which starts at 6:00PM, here.
Band of Outsiders
The Band is getting back together—sort of.
When Band of Outsiders founder and designer Scott Sternberg left the label in May 2015 after it filed for bankruptcy, it was unclear whether BoO—one of the best and most original American brands of the past decade—would ever ride again. Now the label is officially back, revived by Belgian fashion fund CLCC, though without Sternberg’s involvement. Los Angeles remains a seminal part of the brand’s new identity; will the Antwerp grads at the helm—Niklaus Hodel, Matthias Weber, and Florian Feder—be able to capture the subtle irreverence that made Sternberg’s BoO so great, or will they present something sunnily different? We’ll see Saturday. Watch the livestream here. Saturday, September 10 at 7:00PM.
Shows that’ll make waves
Pyer Moss’s Fall-Winter 2016 collection dealt with dark themes—depression, drug use, death—emphasized on emblazoned buttons and even a large sign carried down the runway by the final model. Needless to say, designer Kerby Jean-Raymond, who shows primarily menswear, knows how to make a statement in a crowded week. Last season was also styled by Erkyah Badu and featured a live choir singing Future; this season, expect the clothes to be cool as always and the show to get people talking. Sunday, September 11 at 2:30PM.
Rag & Bone, which shows menswear and womenswear together, consistently puts out one of the most solid collections of any seasonal cycle. Neither over-the-top nor gimmicky, Marcus Wainwright and David Neville's shows manage to subtly hit all the right notes, and this one will invariably influence menswear down the line. Monday, September 12 at 8:00PM.
Ronnie Fieg’s streetwear line Kith, celebrating its fifth anniversary, is holding its first ever NYFW presentation this season, and it promises to be both a celebration and yet another step forward for the brand that's taking over NYC. The show’s being designed by Nate Brown, the guy behind John Elliott’s excellent NYFW: Men’s show in July, and it’ll feature a huge roster of collaborations (24 in all, with everyone from Columbia to A Bathing Ape). With 75 looks, three surprise musical performance, and clothes that are sure to be hot in the streets immediately, it's not to be missed. Tuesday, September 13 at 9:30PM.
For the avant-garde and adventurous
Victor Barragan made a name for himself by selling crying Leonardo DiCaprio tees on a Big Cartel; now he’s pivoted to a fledged out line of unconventional men’s and womenswear typified by big jewelry and androgynous cuts. Expect BARRAGAN’s NYFW debut to make a statement for the young designer. Thursday, September 8 at 2:00PM.
Hood By Air is known just as much for its theatrical and often shocking showmanship as for its now-iconic black-and-white box logo. It’s anyone’s guess what creations Shayne Oliver and co. will trot out on the runway, but expect the silhouettes to be challenging and the models idiosyncratic. Sunday, September 11 at 1:00PM.
Moschino designer Jeremy Scott still designs his eponymous line, and while its psychedelic pop art maximalism isn’t for the faint of heart, there’s no denying the shows—and clothes themselves—are fun as hell. Monday, September 12 at 11:00AM.
Spots to roll through
Cartier just finished a two-and-a-half-year renovation of its flagship 5th Avenue mansion. Stop by to take in the tasteful renovation of one of the midtown Manhattan’s most elegant properties—the party is tonight, but the iconic address is back open for business as of Friday. 653 Fifth Ave.
Made-in-Italy shoe brand Buscemi finally has its first SoHo store, and they’re officially kicking things off Wednesday with a party, as well as a citywide guerilla marketing campaign featuring their signature gold padlock. 47 Wooster St.
Legendary outerwear brand Stone Island opened the doors on its first North American store in July, but on Friday the Italian label is throwing a proper NYFW celebration at Industria Superstudio. Even if you can’t get in, stop by the flagship to browse the best stateside selection of Stone Island gear anywhere. 42 Greene St.